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tribal textures among crazy quilt of European highlights Like political coalitions and fusion food, the parties/dishes/pieces are strong in their own right and capable of existing on their own. Together, they create pieces de resistance that range from France s haute hippies to Italy ugg a s sex rated sendups of girly glam.In Paris, if it isn t ethnic, it s black. In Milan, if it isn t ethnic, it s black and sexy. The strongest case for black comes from YSL Rive Gauche, where heralds the return of the cocktail dress and cocktail suit. Choices range from tight black velvet jackets or black lace blouses with openwork (very open work) ribbon lacing worn with bow tied skirts or tight black satin pants.To melt easily into this new melting pot, you ll want to wear your dresses and skirts over unmatching pants tucked into boots. Practitioners include and Marni, who ve long cultivated rustic ethnicity;there s even a Chanel version teaming a classic tweed cardigan edged in sequins over a sheer black shirt, tweed skirt and black, see through chiffon pants.In the latest version of multiculturalism, tribal clothes are cobbled together in a crazy quilt that fuses embroideries from Czechoslovakia and the Ukraine, braid from Morocco, sherpa sheepskins from Tibet, Eskimo parkas from Alaska, jeweled shawls from Jaipur and dhotis from New Delhi. And a little Russian dressing on the side.To assimilate this expression of fashion diversity, certain items are essential: The bomber/blouson/flight jacket: These military inspired jackets, often in leather, are the favorite counterpoints to the sheer chiffon print tops and dresses they accompany.The most luxe version comes from Rome design icon Valentino, who snugs a brown leather blouson over a chiffon top and long sequin scrolled skirt. The fur vest: Noteworthy here are Jil Sander s sable vest, s black fox vest assembled with a print dress over pants, Gaultier ugg outlet woodbury s black fox puffer styled vest over a chiffon veiled print dress and solid pants and s fur bolero cum vest for . Pants: The narrow trouser that s tucked into boots, puddled into folds at the ankles or zipped open from ankle to hem is the one to pant for. The tighter the better pant, in stretch satin at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and side shirred stretch denim at Versus, is an integral part of the "Sex and the City" look ahead.Knickers are back. Cargos rank high again, parachute pants are part of the aviator look, and there are enough low crotch dhotis and harem hybrids to fill a seraglio. Parkas and duffles: Vuitton s cotton moleskin parka atop alpaca shorts and Dior s coyote parka partnered with a ruffled miniskirt and bare legs would seem to be the ultimate thermodynamic contradictions. Knits: The best expressions of the cave woman/Goth/sauvage looks ahead for fall are the big, loopy, curly hand knits and the fur skins that look like raw pelts thrown together by Attila the Hun.The most artful knit pairings are s long bambola dresses that combine cashmere knits with wide taffeta flounces. Shawls/scarves/mufflers: If you want to be part of the new folklorico without looking too folksy, the one item to buy is the embellished shawl. The best are at Van Noten, where magnificent, embroidered and jeweled maharanee worthy shawls are wearable works of art. Long mufflers and floaty scarfs are also important. The Dress: The Greek goddess dress, held to the body with narrow strips of fabric or leather, reaches Olympian heights at Prada and Lanvin, where wowed them stores that sell ugg boots in his first collection for this venerable house with extraordinary pleated and tucked leathers as well as black evening dresses with jeweled bibs. Sexsational: Ford s hold on sex rated fashion started in Milan, where his Gucci girls set new standards in va va voom. For fall, he describes his new heroine as "very rock, but with a romantic quality." Translated into clothes, that means wannabes with fur stoles slung over one shoulder, heels so high model fell three times (a record) trying to negotiate the shearling lined runway, and bare silk slip dresses snugged with obis.
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