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|Top trends from Paris haute couture shows Adding to the magic of the recent presentations was a rare Paris snowstorm, which transformed the city into a winter wonderland a day before they began. In terms of backdrops, the venue for the Christian Dior show revealed as much about designer Raf Simons s vision as his impressive collection did. As early as Jan. 7, notice went up in the southeast corner of the Tuileries gardens that the area would be closed off in preparation for the show. Three weeks later, an enormous tent was concealed by mirrored panels so that it reflected the Tuileries trees and became all but invisible in its natural setting. Inside, plump, semi circular boxwood hedges and trees supplied by Wirtz International Landscape Architects of Belgium hid staircases from which the models emerged, embodying, according to Simons, "the very idea of spring." Essentially, he had created a secret garden for his Dior flower women. With his second couture collection for the house, Simons revisited ideas he had unveiled back in July: the black cigarette pant, the embellished bustier and beautiful, simplified ball gowns. This time around, however, he also planted the seeds that will likely grow to define his tenure at Dior. The most interesting was a new approach to layering, one that consists of a gradual progression from vest to flared bodice to pencil skirt. The tailoring of his suiting was slim but fluid. Proportionally, everything was in its place. Simons s approach to embellishment is as intricate as any; one dress featured three layers of tulle, all separately embroidered with different layers of flowers. It was as if he had crafted a prize winning garden scheme in beads and pailettes. Grand Italian gardens and old renderings of labyrinths ugg belcloud boot appeared on the mood boards at Valentino, where Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli conceived one of their most flawless collections to date. "Fantasy and reality transform one another with magical naturalness" was how the show notes somewhat awkwardly described the designers vision (chock it up to the Italian translation). Valentino Garavani, in attendance as usual, applauded with approval when the sixth look appeared. Over top a dress embroidered with birds was a cape that mimicked the curlicues of a wrought iron birdcage; according ugg womens to the show notes, achieving such verisimilitude required 500 hours of handwork (which pales in comparison to the 2,500 hours of embroidery that went into affixing porcelain sequins in a meticulous zigzag pattern to another look). Such ornamentation aside, the designers actually seem more and more disciplined. Theirs is a garden that blooms ever so precisely yet allows for movement and lightness. For the Chanel show, Holm oaks, Scotch pines and bushes from the north of France (all purchased after licensed felling) turned the Grand Palais into a wilder wooded scene. Here, Karl Lagerfeld declared that this would be the season of the shoulder framing them from below, extending the sleeve up like armour to shield them, highlighting them with beaded white T shirt style inlays everything, that is, except pad them with unnecessary volume. His floral embellishments appeared as if in relief, their petals layered onto black beaded dresses like wafer thin porcelain. It was all so romantic and also, as many have already pointed out, tinged with melancholy. Couture shows typically end with a wedding dress. While Simons showed five variations at Dior, Lagerfeld showed two, presenting them side by side with a toddler in tow, thus offering unambiguous commentary on France s current divide over proposed gay marriage and adoption laws. Meanwhile, Jean Paul Gaultier s Indian bride had four adorable tots hidden under her huge hoop skirt; they streamed down the runway to the crowd s amusement, ending the show on a high note after a collection that, at times, seemed ornamented to a fault. Giambattista Valli and Elie Saab both expanded on their signatures styles, ensuring the return of their faithful couture customers (a combination of actresses ugg classic short chestnut and heiresses). Valli was strongest when he created a pushpull of black and white, rigorous and diaphanous. Saab showed four gowns that introduced some soft multi coloured beading atop outlines of sculptural detailing. They were gorgeous. The Atelier Versace and Maison Martin Margiela collections excited for different reasons, but shared a common rebellious spirit. The former was unapologetically flashy; how else to describe the mini dress in alternating strips of neon yellow mink and python, gold and crystal laminate? The latter was achingly cool; with Kanye West, Simons and Mugler s Nicola Formichetti looking on from the audience, models with faces concealed by embroidered veils showed what s possible when vintage flapper dresses from the 1920s and ballgowns from the fifties are restored like Renaissance paintings and remastered and enhanced like a Diplo remix. For those with a hankering for the absurd, there were also coats embroidered entirely in candy wrappers. The final time slot of the week went to Canadian Rad Hourani, who, in his high fashion debut, sent out a collection of 22 completely unisex looks a first for Couture Week. Made of black and white leather, the layered pieces had been cut in such a precise way to fit both male and female body types (or, more accurately, androgynous ones). Hourani, whose place on the official calendar came through the recommendation of Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, admits that his avant garde aesthetic does not fit neatly into the couture archetype. "Couture doesn t always mean flowers and feathers; couture can be wearable 24 hours. It s just how you execute it," Hourani says. "It s important to be comfortable, wearable and extremely luxurious."
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Top up for textiles News NavbarNews ArchiveThis week newsLast week newsArchiveOr search the news archive for:Top up for textiles15/11/2012 Government support for Scotland s textiles industry has strengthened significantly, Culture Secretary Fiona Hyslop said today. Speaking as the Scottish Textiles Industry Conference got underway, Ms Hyslop confirmed that in the six months to September 2012, textiles firms were offered 662,000 in Regional Selective Assistance grants almost three times the amount offered to the sector during the previous two years. The cash offered during this six month period will help to create 38 new jobs and safeguard 149. Preparing ugg winter boot to address industry delegates at a conference event, Ms Hyslop said: "The Scottish textiles industry is world renowned for quality and excellence, and is a global ambassador for Scotland s rich culture and heritage. "It employs more than 9,000 people, directly contributes 314 million to Scotland s economy, and has a proven track record for doing business across the world, supporting economic growth through its trade with global markets. "It makes strong economic sense to support the sector in whatever ways we can. The increase we have seen in RSA funding offered so far this year our Year of Creative Scotland highlights our commitment to doing that. "Through the Scottish Manufacturing Advisory Service, our enterprise agencies have supported more than 125 textiles firms to increase their competitiveness during the last six years, delivering 4.5 million in added value. "And through groundbreaking initiatives like Scotland Re:Designed, we are supporting textiles and fashion firms to work collaboratively Women Black Uggs Classic Short Boots 5825BLK to secure business in key overseas markets. "We have seen many recent examples of significant success for the sector. Just this week Chanel announced it will stage its legendary Metiers d Art show at Linlithgow Palace, Finance Secretary, John Swinney, opened Scott and Fyfe authorized ugg retailers s Innovation Centre in Tayport, and we learned that Biggar company Calzeat and Co. supply textiles to The White House in Washington DC. "And today I welcome the registration of a new tartan by leading US retailer Brooks Brothers, reaffirming the company s commitment to further strengthening its links with Scotland s textiles sector." Regional Selective Assistance (RSA) is the main national scheme of financial assistance to industry. It provides discretionary grants to investment projects that will create and safeguard employment in areas designated for regional aid under European Community law. SMAS is delivered throughout the Scottish Enterprise and Highlands and Islands Enterprise areas. A Manufacturing Review, which is free to all manufacturing companies in Scotland, involves a diagnostic visit from a SMAS practitioner, with a report following the visit stating the opportunities and actions for the company to improve productivity and competitiveness. Scotland re:Designed is a platform where Scottish fashion designers and textile companies can build, establish and secure new and ongoing business relationships with media and buyers, secure short and long term sales and boost brand profiles. Scotland re:Designed is open to Scottish designers, Scottish fashion companies and Scottish textile producers who are able to demonstrate a track record of supporting and championing Scotland s fashion and textile industry.
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